Saturday, June 23, 2018

May 2018 - Chengdu

BEWARE! - if you don't like Pandas, please close this page now.


Pandas, Pandas, and more pandas....  This blog covers our trip to Chengdu and some of the surrounding area.  

The pandas in Chengdu start as soon as you step off the plane.  Every welcome sign had a panda.

We arrived in the early afternoon on a Saturday. After checking into the hotel, we took a stroll around the neighborhood.  After walking for about a half hour, we both had the same feeling.  For a a big city (14.5 million people), it was extremely relaxed and quiet.  More important than that, people were smiling!  Our guides told us later that Chengdu is considered the happiest, most-relaxed place in China.  We agree wholeheartedly.

As we were looking for things to do (other than see pandas), we decided to rely on one of our favorite other hobbies, eating.  Chengdu is in the heart of Sichuan, and Sichuan is known for their spicy food - numbing peppers.  We decided on a Lost Plate tour - http://lostplate.com/chengdu-food-tours/#eveningtour

We found our way to the meeting point for our tour via the subway - very clean and orderly (no pushing), and shiny, happy people.  

There were 8 other people on our tour - a couple from Boston,  a couple from Philadelphia, a couple from Colorado but currently living locally (she teaches English to kindergartners), and two British teachers currently living in Guangzhou.  They were all a blast.  We were very lucky.

As we left the subway we had our first taste treat - fried rice balls.  Yes, they're simple, but they're awesome.

At the end of the block, tuk-tuks were waiting to take us on our tasting adventure.
And everyone got a koozie to keep the unlimited cans of beer cool.

Our first stop was a street corner stall for pancake-like treats (reminded us of Hong Kong egg waffles).  You could choose the filling - something sweet (chocolate), savory, or...
...one of the other filling options was translated as "Strange".  So, yes, Patrick had to try that one.  The food happy dance began.

Next stop was to try the most famous dumplings in the city.  The restaurant was essentially someone's home.  I suspect they live upstairs.  Top left picture was our entrance through the back door, and the top right picture was the general public entrance through the apartment courtyard.

Next stop - spicy noodles.  Most everyone lost all feeling in their mouth.  
Woooooo - Hot stuff.
Then we were off for stir fry. Top right picture is Pumpkin Sticky Rice - pretty good.  The picture on the left is Kung Pow chicken.  It was unlike any in the US.  They use a local vegetable  instead of bell peppers and celery, and the flavor was fantastic.

Next stop was for hot pot.  Hot pot in every area is different.  Here in Chengdu, all the meat and veg was on skewers, and you paid by the skewer.  A bit like fondue, only not... Yummy!

Last stop was at a a local tavern - Gwen had Tsingtao White Beer.

It was everything we could have asked for.  There wasn't a stop along the way we would have found on our own.  They were all truly local.  We hope to use this company again and can't recommend them enough.  Lost Plate Tours... check 'em out.  If you're ever in Chengdu, ask for Chin.

PANDA DAY
🐼

There are about 6 "panda bases" in this area of China.  Their purpose is to increase and protect the panda population (and raise funds, of course).  One of the bases is in Chengdu.  It is the easiest to access and very popular.  We chose Chengdu Bamboo Tour Company and their 2 Day Dujiangyan Panda Tour HERE.  Ask for Lynn.


The start of our day included donning our super-official badges and polos with (of course) pandas on them.   We figured out later - that they actually were important, and distinguished us from other visitors. We had some "normal" visitors throughout the day who tried to sneak in on our activities and were quickly removed by the staff.

Our first activity was the least fun.  We cleaned a panda pen.  A pen includes a large outdoor  play area outside and their shelter or "house".

We removed the leftover bamboo the panda did not feel was fit to eat.  Apparently, they're pretty spoiled and will only eat the freshest bamboo.

Aaaaaaaand we scooped panda poop.

If you've ever wondered what panda poop looks like.  Well, here you go.


The panda  we took care of was Dai Li.  He was the oldest panda in the base.  They think he's around 19, which is pretty old for a panda.  They're not certain of his age since he was born in the wild.  When he was found and rescued, he had just been in a bad fight.  The vets had to amputate his left, rear leg.  That did not slow him down when there was bamboo and panda cakes to eat.






After cleaning Dai Li's pen and watching some of the other pandas eat breakfast, we moved to a different part of the base for Gwen's "panda holding" experience.  Along the way we saw a lot more pandas.   

Little-known-fact... It's impossible to walk past a panda and not take their picture - even if they are sleeping.





The highlight of the trip was Gwen sitting next to an 18 month-old panda and making friends with her in 20 seconds.  #1 - they are not soft as you would expect like a teddy bear.  #2 - they can be aggressive, which is why this part of the trip was not guaranteed.

Here is my friend Mu Yun!

After the photo op - we went to feed another panda friend some carrots and panda bars.

Then, we were off to see some more pandas on our way to lunch.

This cub was still in the same enclosure as momma panda.  She decided that sleeping in the tire swing was just the thing.

 Mom was napping too... 

The base was at the foot of a mountain, but all the roads were paved, and we had our own panda bus to take us from the main lodge / entrance to the enclosures.  Pandas clearly like hills....

After lunch we had some more time to look around, and we found the red pandas.  They are related to the giant pandas in some fashion and technically are not bears.  There is still a running debate whether giant pandas are bears, too.  Who cares, they're all awesome!  The red pandas are a lot more active than giant pandas, and we think they're cute.  The blond one is a younger panda.  They're coats darken as they reach maturity.



After we chilled out with the red pandas, we saw a few more sleeping giant pandas.  Yes, you got it - they essentially, eat, sleep, and poop.



We had time to feed another panda friend some carrots and panda cakes:

Here is a super cute video of her eating her panda cake:


Our last volunteer activity was to make panda cakes - which are oats, soy, corn, and some vitamins and minerals.




Next we decided to broaden our horizons (ha ha) with some history.  We visited the first irrigation system in China - Dujiang Weir. It was built around the same time as the Great Wall (~256 BC)  Patrick is always fascinated by early engineering. 

Here is a map of the area.  What the map does not show is elevation.  We started at the top and worked our way down.  Yeah, waaaaay over 10,000 steps.

Here is the official divide/diversion creating the irrigation flow to the Chengdu basin.  It has been modernized over 2,400 years, but the original "fish island" shape has been maintained.

As we walked through the area, we saw a few temples and a wall of love locks.

More shots of the river diverging.  The left fork is the controlled irrigation flow, and the right fork is a spillway.
Our last stop in that area was to see a beautiful bonsai garden.  Unfortunately, we didn't spend a lot of time there.  We were running behind schedule, and it started to rain.  We got more video than photos.

After we got back to the hotel, we walked to dinner - yes, MORE street food.  This time, we didn't have a guide.  Here is some of the delicious chicken we found.

Before leaving Dujiangyan, we took this photo from our hotel of another divide in the river.  This is quite a bit downstream, but it's the same river system in the pictures earlier that was split off to feed the city.


For our last full day in the area, we started by visiting Qingcheng Mountain.  We learned it was the inspiration for the movie Kung Fu Panda 3.  Betcha didn't know that... The goal was to get to the top of the mountain and see one of the oldest Tao Temples.

Here is the bottom of the mountain.

Here is the map of what was ahead of us.  The right picture is our trek to the top.

To get to the top, it took some hiking, a ferry across a lake, a cable car, and MORE hiking.

Here is the lake.

This gate was a short hike after the cable car.

At this point - Gwen decided a cup of tea would be more enjoyable than more hiking.

Patrick and our guide make it to the top in the rain and a lot of fog.  Patrick said it was worth it.  Gwen was not so sure she believed him and was glad she stayed dry and had tea.


The way down was much easier than the way up.  Here are some views from the cable car ride down.  The weather had cleared a bit.  The pictures don't do it justice.  The greens are eye-popping.

Patrick getting ready to take the ferry back across the lake.

Here is the stream heading down the mountain with us.

A beautiful painting of the area greeted us at the bottom.

After all the hiking, it was time for a traditional Sichuan lunch.  The large picture is more Kung Pow Chicken.  It was even better than what we had on the food tour).

For dessert we had some local cherries.  They were almost as good as the ones picked off the trees at Perry Acres.

Heading back to Chengdu I got a few shots of the local taxis - yep, more pandas.

For our last night, we checked out a new part of town.  We did not know we would see the "largest freestanding building in the world".  It was completed in 2013 and included a large (understatement of the year) shopping mall along with a waterpark etc. etc.

After a stroll around the mall, we found ourselves a much-needed foot massage before turning in for the night.  

CONGRATULATIONS for making it to the end of this blog.  As your reward you get to see an 8 1/2 minute video of our panda visit. 🐼🐼🐼



Sunday, June 3, 2018

May 2018

This blog will be relatively short.  There was some fun between our trips to Siem Reap and Chengdu (coming soon).

You will find a theme - we are expecting visitors in July - so we are scouting a few places.

First was Kowloon Taproom.  Lots of local beer on tap.  Not sure if it will make the family itinerary, but we will be back.



I went venturing in our hood on a quest for a kitchen gadget in the restaurant supply shops The trick is that most places sell in multiples of 10 or more... so buying one sugar bowl was a challenge.  

On my walk home I stumbled upon the Jade Market.  I have spent a lot of time in Hong Kong, and this was my first visit.  This will be on the family itinerary.

Next is Reclamation Street - this is where the local fresh fruit and vegetable market is located.  Think of like a several block long farmer's market.  Along the way - I found the market cats :).   They're much cuter than veggies.

Saturday was Cirque de Soleil - Kooza.  We took the Star Ferry across the harbour.  It's not just for fun; it's actually great public transportation. 

After the show, we headed into Central for dinner at Little Bao and a drink at The Old Man.  I can't believe I didn't take any photos.  Both these places have a chance of making the family itinerary.  Little Bao is a phenomenal (really tiny) restaurant and the Old Man is a take on an old speakeasy with great cocktails.

On our way home from work one night - we picked up on a sign on the train platform.  It is telling passengers that when you hear the signal, the doors will slam on you (HARD), so don't try to get on.
And it has a buddy saying "When you hear "Ding-Dong", please let passengers exit before boarding.  We joked about it, and realized how many people don't pay attention.  Which again got us thinking of the family visitors and information they need to know:

 - When on escalator, and anywhere else for that matter, it's polite to stand on the right and walk on the left.  
- They drive on the left too, so be careful when crossing streets.  There are signs at all cross walks reminding you which way to look.
 - When walking beware of people stopping at any point in time to stare at their phone.  You must be a defensive walker.
 - Personal Space does not exist - expect to be touching multiple people while on public transportation.  If you think the train is too full - push your way on, because the next one will not be different.  People will move you... don't be offended.  They won't be.

Patrick has been craving a deli sandwich (we have been watching a YouTuber based in NYC - and there is food in the vLog).  I started the search and surprised him on a Saturday night.  We took at trip to the Island and found ourselves at Morty's in Wan Chai.  Success - the craving was satisfied with a reuben sandwich and a chocolate shake.  Gwen had a local beer (Young Master's Pilsner) with her reuben.
That's all for now.... next up PANDAS!

Saturday, June 2, 2018

April 2018 - Siem Reap Day #3

Our final day of temple touring stated early - earlier than bright and early, because we were going to watch the sunrise over Angkor Wat.  

Temple #12 (again) - Angkor Wat

We had a lot of cloud cover, but it was still beautiful. 



One more reflection on the water.

Since we arrived before sunrise, we thought we would have the place to ourselves, but there were probably at least another thousand people who showed up thinking the same.  We did manage to find a large nook with no one around.

We then queued for about 30 minutes waiting for the steps to the top to open.  Here are a few shots from the top. 




This is a view from the back of the temple as we were leaving.

Temple #18 - Bantaey Samre

We left Angkor Wat around 7am.  Our next stop was about 20 minutes away.  We had the entire temple to ourselves with the exception of a cat.




The tomb within the temple is speculated to have been for an infant or small child, but it has yet to be fully confirmed.  It's hard to tell from the photo, but it's quite small.  





Temple #19 - Bantaey Srei

We started moving north from Siem Reap.






Temple #20 - Lolei

Next we travelled about 40 minutes south.  The last three temples we saw were the oldest, dating to ~the late 9th century. 






Temple #21 - Preah Ko






Temple #22 - Bakong Temple





Last climb.

We went back to the hotel around noon for a very late breakfast/brunch.  After a quick bite, we took a tuk tuk to a workshop of local artists.



This location both an artists workshop / guild and a training center.  





After we got back to the hotel, Patrick headed to the spa and Gwen to the pool.



Later, we began to reflect on everything we saw and realized we took almost 1,000 still photos on 3 different devices.  I took some time to organize what we did.  I made a list of every temple and the times we were there.  It worked great until I realized the time on one camera was incorrect - 1st world problems.




As we were leaving - we noticed some sculptures at the airport made by the artists we visited.



We learned a lot about Cambodia's history from the 9th century to recent events.  We read before going not to ask about Khmer Rouge, but we were fortunate that our guide was a trained historian willing to share his perspective.  

Cambodia has an intriguing history, and they're only recently discovering (or rediscovering) some of it.  We saw large-scale restorations almost everywhere we went, and were encouraged to learn that some of the artifacts stolen during various wars were being recovered.  There is also a large effort to partner with Thailand and other countries to continue learning and translating the ancient language.

If you ever need a tour guide and driver in Siem Reap - we can't say enough good things about our guide Em and driver Kriss from http://www.aangkorwattour.com/   They made our trip comfortable, educational, and memorable.  Which reminds me, I need to write the TripAdvisor review.